Alpine climbing knots. This page is dedicated to knots used in sports climbing.

Alpine climbing knots. Make sure the load strand is closest to the spine of the carabiner; failure to do so is likely to reduce the carab Mar 26, 2025 · These animated knots are designed for climbers, rescue workers, arborists, tower climbers, and others who use ropes in man-carrying applications. Counted among the most secure knots, it can be done in just three steps, as […] There are many types of knots that are commonly used in the pursuit of rock climbing, ice climbing, and general mountaineering, the most popular of which are listed below. In the following video Climbing magazine's Jullie Ellison demonstrates these two important knots May 17, 2021 · The alpine butterfly is known by a number of names: the butterfly knot, the lineman's loop, the alpine middleman's knot, or the lineman's rider. This hitch works best on a large pear shaped locking HMS style carabiner like a Petzl Attach or Petzl Learn about different types of climbing knots, hitches and bends, and get tips on how to tie them. The Alpine Coil is a method used by climbers for carrying a rope, such that the rope remains attached to harnesses and ready for use. The document discusses several rock climbing knots, including the Alpine Butterfly knot, Bowline knot, Double Figure Eight Loop knot, Double Alpine Butterfly knot, and Prusik knot. Here explained using the twist method. The Alpine Butterfly is an excellent mid-line knot. They can be life-saving in critical situations and are instrumental in your ascent and descent. IPHONE APP: http Jan 6, 2017 · The Super-Eight, also known as the Figure-Eight-with-Bunny-Ears and the Double Loop Eight, is a very useful knot. In this video series, we show some of the ways each knot can be tied and explain some of the uses, advantages, and limitations of each knot. May 25, 2023 · While this knot is incredibly strong and secure, it can be untied easily, even after being subjected to intense strain. Strength loss from knots in webbing and cord Here’s a nice diagram drawn by IFMGA Guide Georg Sojer @sojercartoon from an article by German mountain guide / Bergfuhrer Chris Semmel of the German Mountain and Ski Guides Association (“Verband Deutscher Berg und Skiführer” or “VDBS”). The climber in this video does a great job of dressing the knot. 00:00 Intro0 AboutPressCopyrightContact usCreatorsAdvertiseDevelopersTermsPrivacyPolicy & SafetyHow YouTube worksTest new featuresNFL Sunday Ticket© 2025 Google LLC How to tie knots. Butterfly Also know as the alpine butterfly. Oct 1, 2016 · Last month I mentioned that the Alpine Butterfly was one of my four “must know” knots here. Arborist Knots Here is a selection of knots for arborists, animated and illustrated. Arborists use a variety of knots day-to-day, and each knot can be tied in various ways. It will accommodate a load in any of three directions independently or together. This knot’s intended use is for climbing. This will help you to find the Munter hitch, figure eight knot, prusik, over hand knot: There are lots of knots in alpine climbing. The knots are ranked into groups, to keep things organized. But there are so many different types of knots - how are you supposed to know which ones are the most useful, and in what type of situation? Which knot is best for sport Dec 8, 2017 · The following is the fifth in a series of “how-to” videos on the major knots and hitches used in the mountains. Bachmann Knot This knot is easier to slide than a Prusik. Here are some common climbing knots along with their purposes and applications: Alpine Butterfly Loop: The Alpine Butterfly Loop creates a fixed loop in the middle of a rope. You will find that almost all of them are very secure. Knots and hitches, lions and tigers oh my! Admittedly rock climbing and tying knots go together like… well, rock climbing and tying knots. The Munter Hitch is one of the most valuable knots used in climbing and every climber should become familiar with this versatile hitch. But learning how to tie a rock climbing knot doesn’t have to be intimidating or confusing. In this episode we're looking at some of the essential climbing knots May 27, 2025 · Master knot tying with over 25+ essential types of knots with practical , real-world knots—covering simple loops to advanced binding and hitch knots. Get to know the most important ones in this video and test your knowledge! An assortment of knots that may be useful for climbing, mountaineering, camping, etc. Learn how to tie these knots with these videos and step by step guides. One of the guiding principals of British climbing and mountaineering is that it is the individual climber is responsible for his or her own safety. attaching your safety rope to your harness) as you can see at a glance if the knot is tied correctly. Genius Knots to STOP RopeRope Trick Tired of tangled ropes and unreliable knots? 😫In this video, you'll learn 3 genius knots that are incredibly strong, sim Feb 9, 2020 · There is little in climbing as important as rock climbing knots. More About How to Knot » Welcome to my How to Knot tutorial, I will be showing you how to tie an alpine butterfly knot. But what about tying multiple knots in the same strand? Does that reduce the strength multiple times? What happens when you have a loop of cord tied with a knot, is the strength reduced in that? The Alpine Club of Italy did some testing, here are the answers. Welcome to Knots and Climbing! On this website you will find all the knots you can think of, as well as their applications. They are, after all, what keeps you tied to the rope, which ensures you stay alive if you fall, and gives you the confidence to venture off into the vertical. FULL VIDEO: https://youtu. Follow these steps to tie the Oct 29, 2024 · The alpine butterfly knot is more than just a pretty name for an ingenious loop with multiple uses. These groups are both based on use as on type of knot. There are hundreds of types of knots you can use for climbing, so taking the step to learn them can be daunting. . While Werner Munter didn’t invent the hitch, a few Italian’s did in the 1950s, he was the one who popularized it in the 1970s and why it bears his name. This is a very useful knot for climbing (e. It’s commonly used in climbing for creating a secure attachment point or for isolating a damaged Aug 1, 2023 · The alpine butterfly knot is useful for its ability to be loaded in multiple directions without weakening the rope and is always able to be untied after use. Knots The Figure-8: How to Tie In to a Climbing Rope Figure-8 on a Bight The Overhand Knot The Clovehitch The Girth Hitch Prusik Knots: Different Types Explained The Mule Overhand Knot > How To Tie-Off a Belay Device The Munter Hitch – How To Belay Without a Belay Device The Double Fisherman’s Bend The Alpine Butterfly Knot The Double Mar 20, 2025 · Plus, learn the many uses and advantages of the butterfly knotThe Alpine butterfly knot, also known as the lineman's loop, is a super useful knot for mountaineers, rock climbers, rescue professionals, and anyone else who needs a secure Ultimately climbing is a dangerous sport and claims many casualties each year. These animated knots are for climbers, rescue workers, arborists, tower-climbers, and others who use rope in man-carrying applications. Here's how to tie our favorite knot in five quick steps. Rock Climbing Knots. This versatile knot creates a secure, load-bearing loop in the middle of a rope without needing access to the ends. The first is the overhand flat bend and the second is the barrel knot (sometimes referred to as the strangle knot). You actually only need to know a relatively small number of knots to climb in safety. Climbing knots are essential tools for climbers, providing security, stability, and flexibility in various situations. Also sometimes used in Tyrolean traverses. The Alpine Butterfly Loop provides a secure loop in the middle of a piece of rope. Alpine Coil How to coil a rope with the Alpine Coil Knot - 5 illustrated and animated steps. A must know for anyone who uses ropes in day to day life. Essential Climbing Knots that can get you out of any situation. Whether you're in the wilderness, climbing, or performing a rescue operation, these knots are Mar 16, 2025 · The Alpine Butterfly Bend is a secure knot used for joining two ropes of similar diameter, making it ideal for climbing, rescue operations, and rigging. For sport climbing in crags, one or two knots are enough, whereas if you go alpine climbing, you need more. Mouse over a knot name in the list below to see a description of that knot. However, you do need to know them well, including if you are tired or under time pressure (or even in the dark if you had to). g. Animated Lesson Flat Overhand (aka European Death Knot) Simple, elegant knot for tying two ropes ends together. Unlock the secrets of this essential climbing technique as we guide you through its intricacies and practical applications. emely useful at belay stations. Download Climbing Knots. Animation shows how to tie the Alpine Butterfly Loop for Climbing and Rescue Workers. It maintains high strength and stability under load, distributing tension evenly to prevent slippage or failure. Jan 24, 2022 · While there are about a dozen noteworthy climbing knots, I’ll be discussing the strongest six that you must learn immediately. It is also known as a mountaineer's coil. This is the first of our "outdoor skills" series and we're starting with a knot video. Every knot used in climbing reduces the strength of the alpine rope. With this use, both The Alpine Butterfly Knot is a highly dependable mid-line loop knot often used in climbing, camping, and rope rescue scenarios. This means it can be set part way along a rope to create a loop that can be loaded in any direction. Feb 11, 2024 · The Alpine Butterfly Loop, also known as the Butterfly Loop, is a versatile and incredibly strong knot that finds applications in climbing, camping, sailing, and various outdoor activities. It is commonly used to equalize two points with a rope. This selection is based on consultation with, and feedback from, many experienced climbers. Following is a short video on how to tie the knot. Nov 11, 2023 · In this illustrated guide, we teach you how to tie the Double Alpine Butterfly Loop Knot and share other knots that can be used as alternatives. This blog describes key climbing knots and terms for a climbing tour For all outdoor and climbing enthusiasts! All these knots and their uses are covered thoroughly in AAI's introductory rock climbing and mountaineering courses. Thanks to Grog's Animated Knots for the animations linked above. Whether you're a seasoned climber or a curious beginner, our step-by-step instructions will empower you to conquer any ascent with confidence. Mountain climbers use the Alpine Butterfly for tying in the middle climber when traveling three to a rope The Alpine Butterfly Bend is a reliable bend used to join two ropes of roughly similar size and can be untied even after being heavily loaded. Its key features include: Strength: It maintains a high percentage of the rope's original strength The Alpine Butterfly Knot is one of the most reliable knots for creating a secure loop in the middle of a rope. We show you how to tie the knots with clear step-by-step pictures and a tutorial video, which also shows the process clearly. Mar 10, 2025 · The double bowline gets a bad rap for climbing, but tied correctly, it still has its place, and has served climbers for over 100 years. This an all around great knot as it’s able to hold a load equally regardless which is held, loop does not expand when tightened, and can be easily untied after a loaded. Apr 8, 2025 · The Double Alpine Butterfly Loop forms two secure loops mid-rope, perfect for climbing, rescue, or pulley setups, handling multidirectional loads. Interestingly, it shows that cord is A library of instructional climbing videos and video courses including rope systems, rappelling, expedition planning, techniques for alpine climbing, knots and hitches, crevasse rescue, and more. Knowing the right knot for the right moment is a fundamental skill for any budding mountaineer. rappelling situation) or creating a circular cordelette in a rope or smaller Feb 2, 2025 · Here is a selection of arborist knots, including illustrated hitches like the Blake's Hitch and the Basket Hitch for aerial tree work. Climbing is an exhilarating and challenging sport that requires a combination of physical strength, mental fortitude, and technical knowledge. An excellent mid-line rigging knot, the Alpine Butterfly is easy to inspect for correctness, can be loaded in any direction, and can be easily tied with gloves on The Alpine Butterfly Knot (the Alpine Butterfly loop and Alpine Butterfly bend) is one of the most useful knots to know for arborist, camping, climbing, hiking, and survival. She covers the Clove Hitch, the Double Fisherman’s Bend, the Figure 8 on a Bight, the Barrel Knot and Nov 16, 2023 · In this step-by-step instruction, we teach you how to tie the Alpine Butterfly Bend Knot and share other bend knots that can be used as alternatives. It's easy to untie after heavy use. It's widely used in climbing, rescue, and bushcraft due to its strength and stability. Includes Prusik, Alpine Butterfly, Double Fisherman's, Figure 8 Follow Through, Double Figure 8 and many Feb 2, 2025 · Rescue and survival knots are crucial for emergency situations. Among the essential skills that every climber must master is the ability to tie reliable and secure knots. Frequent practice is the name of the game. The butterfly loop, also known as lineman's loop, butterfly knot, alpine butterfly knot and lineman's rider, is a knot used to form a fixed loop in the middle of a rope. Feb 25, 2025 · The Alpine Butterfly Bend is a strong and reliable knot ideal for joining two ropes of similar diameter. Good knot for creating safety clip-in points while setting anchors. Tied in the bight, it can be made in a rope without access to either of the ends; this is a distinct advantage when working with long climbing ropes. The rope skills presented here are a collection of mountaineering knots and hitches that climbers should know in order to feel comfortable and properly prepared when joining an expedition. Mouse over the name of the knot below to see a description of that knot. An easy tutorial on The Alpine Butterfly - the best knot for midline applications. Jul 24, 2015 · The figure-eight follow-through -- also often referred to as the figure-eight retrace and the rewoven figure-eight -- is one of the hardest working knots in climbing. Here, I’d like to give my reasons why as well as cover a few unusual variations on its use. If you cannot accept this then this site and probably climbing in general is unlikely to suit you. Feb 6, 2025 · Ready to climb with confidence? Learn how to tie important climbing knots before you start your adventures. There are really only a few basic knots and hitches that I use regularly as a mountain guide. It has found a use, instead of a clove hitch, when equalising anchors for a top rope set up (in specific circumstances). rappelling situation) or creating a circular cordelette in a rope or smaller In this video, Miranda shows you how to tie five of the most commonly used climbing knots. Jul 2, 2025 · The Alpine Butterfly Knot (Lineman's Knot) creates a secure loop in the middle of a rope. It is also known as the Alpine butterfly knot and Lineman’s loop. Jul 3, 2012 · Load-limiter knots and chaining In the mountains or on long rock routes, anchor efficiency can be the difference between a comfortable finish and a forced bivouac. The perfect handling of the knots is an absolute prerequisite for climbing, as you should be able to tie the knots with ease during emergencies, when tired, under time pressure, or in the dark. A well-tied knot can be the difference between life and death. A half hitch can be tied around the standing part to make the knot more secure Feb 23, 2006 · By Dave Nettle - I actually began to focus on the glacier travel and realized that there’s a more versatile and functional way to rope up, especially for climbers who travel in a party of two and want to keep their equipment to a minimum. Most climbers tie this knot multiple times a day. Alpine Butterfly Knot is a simple and effective method to create a mid-line loop which is safe for climbing. And techniques how to tie them super fast and in a way that you will never forget. In fact, it is second on my list. Alpine Butterfly Knot How to tie the Alpine Butterfly knot. Climbing Knots Here is a list of knots that are essential for climbing, animated and illustrated. In other words she doesn't have any weird Sep 30, 2022 · There are two key knots for rappelling. Jun 7, 2017 · Stay tuned for more videos on knots like the figure-8, double-fisherman, ring bend- and hitches like the muenter & prussik! Most often used when clipping into the middle of a section of rope, the alpine butterfly is a simple and effective knot. Load can be safely applied: from both loops and ends; from either loop to either end of the rope; between the two ends with the loops hanging free; or between the loops with the ends Jun 12, 2023 · Embark on a thrilling adventure of knot-tying mastery with our comprehensive blog post on the Alpine Butterfly Knot. In the following video Climbing magazine's Jullie Ellison demonstrates these two important knots Learn about different types of climbing knots, hitches and bends, and get tips on how to tie them. The butterfly can be used for putting a loop in the middle of How to tie the alpine butterfly knot. There is a faster, easier, and often equally safe solution: the “alpine anchor. Find out the pros and cons for these 10 beginners climbing knots. Learn knots like Figure 8 Follow Through Knot, Bowline, Alpine Butterfly, and more. The Alpine Butterfly Knot, known for its ability to withstand strain from multiple directions, became widely recognized in the climbing community for its strength and versatility. Feb 2, 2025 · Here is a selection of arborist knots, including illustrated hitches like the Blake's Hitch and the Basket Hitch for aerial tree work. Aug 31, 2023 · Knots are essential tools for rock climbers. But there are so many different types of knots - how are you supposed to know which ones are the most useful, and in what type of situation? Which knot is best for sport Jul 2, 2024 · Most climbers know that tying any sort of a knot reduces the strength of cord, rope or webbing. It's easier to untie, after being weighted, than a figure eight and uses less rope. For each knot, a brief description is provided along with step-by-step instructions on how to tie the knot. be/y_oGpA1gVS4In this Short, I demonstrate how to tie a Double Loop Alpine Butterfly, which is an omnidirectional knot with two fix Dec 17, 2024 · An Alpine Butterfly knot can also be applied in various ways and in the world of tree climbing, it creates an excellent canopy anchor that requires minimal (if any) climbing gear when it comes to SRT (retrievable) and when it comes to working down the spar, tying the end-of-line Alpine Butterfly makes for a bomb proof anchor. This page is dedicated to knots used in sports climbing. 1 Alpine Butterfly Bend2 Alpine Butterfly Loop3 Blake's Hitch4 Bowline Knot5 Chain Sinnet (Monkey Braid)6 Clove Hitch Tied with Rope End7 Double Alpine Butterfly Loop8 Directional Figure 8 Loop9 Distel Master These 3 Climbing Knots A Beginner's Guide 00:00 Munter Hitch 00:35 Coil Rope 01:57 Alpine Butterfly Bend Welcome to Knot Guide, learn essential knots for camping, survival, boating, fishing Alpine Butterfly The Alpine Butterfly is a notable knot that is particularly valued in climbing, mountaineering, and general outdoor activities. May 11, 2013 · Alpine Butterfly Creates an in-line attachment point in a weight-bearing line. The construction of the knot allows it to be weighted in multiple directions, the same way an in-line knot might be weighted in a single direction. While this knot might be considered to be a more advanced mountaineering knot, we’re including on the list of basic climbing knots because it’s just so useful to know. Learn how to tie the essential knots climbing for beginner climbers. One important caveat: while this knot symmetric, carabiners are not. Hitches, such as the Blake's Hitch are useful for aerial work in trees. It gained popularity in the late Alpine Butterfly The Alpine Butterfly is a midline knot sometimes used to tie in the middle man during glacier travel. The document serves as a guide for rock climbers to learn essential climbing knots. Here explained using the hand wrap method. From the commonly used Alpine Butterfly knot to the Figure Eight follow through. Mar 28, 2025 · The ability to properly tie climbing knots is an essential skill that every climber, regardless of experience or ability, should not only learn, but master. Sep 30, 2022 · There are two key knots for rappelling. This is due to the twisting and interlacing of the threads in the knot, which leads to their incompleteness and even non-participation of some of them in the subsequent load. Types of knots for alpine climbing There are many knots that climbers use depending upon the situation. Stay tuned for more videos on knots like the bowline and ring bend, and hitches like the Klemheist and Prusik! The water knot is a simple knot used to tie two ends of webbing together. Feb 19, 2025 · Learn how and when to tie these five knots for backpacking that should be in every hiker and camper's repertoire. THE ALPINE BUTTERFLY KNOT, also known simply as the Butterfly Knot due to theform it takes while tying, forms a secure loop in the middle of a rope. Elevate your Master how to tie Climbing Knots with step-by-step animations and videos. It’s from a German climbing magazine, here’s the original. It provides a pair of secure loops in the middle of a piece of rope. Here are detailed insights into this knot: Functionality The Alpine Butterfly knot is primarily used to create a fixed loop in the middle of a rope. Here is a video of how to do it: Bowline The bowline can be used for tying loops around things. The History of the Alpine Butterfly Knot Knot tying has a rich history that dates back thousands of years, serving various purposes, from fishing to climbing and rescue operations. A useful midline knot, the butterfly knot has its uses in glacier travel and rock climbing, where it is often used to tie the climber in the middle. The butterfly loop is an excellent mid-line rigging knot; it handles multi Dec 31, 1999 · Food & drinks Extra clothing 4. this particular knot will accomplish equalization. Using a cordelette to equalize an anchor is easy and strong, but it takes a lot of extra time to set up, and even longer to break down. Used for connecting two ropes to create a longer one (e. The Alpine Butterfly Knot provides a secure loop in the middle of a piece of rope. The Alpine Butterfly is excellent for life outdoors and The Alpine Butterfly Knot is used to form a fixed loop in the middle of a rope. Knowledge of these knots and skills is taught and eventually required to complete the class: Knots Test Belaying Top-Rope Belaying with ATC Pull-Brake-Under-Slide newbies will find this video useful Detailed video on belaying and the safety checks Top-Rope Belaying with Munter Use Mountain and Rock Climbing Knots Rock climbing, rappelling and mountaineering require you to have a sound knowledge of basic climbing knots since you need to work with ropes extensively. Joins two ropes and avoids the risk of jamming. Clear step by step knot instructions plus animated knots for boaters, scouts, climbers, search and rescue, arborists and sailors. Unlike some other joining knots, it’s relatively easy to learn and tie, even under pressure. We also have a ' How to Tie Friction Hitches ' webpage for further learning. Discover our guide to climbing knots for beginners today. Features: The Double Alpine Butterfly Loop is a derivative of the Lineman’s Loop (ABOK # 1053, p 191) or Harness Loop (ABOK # 532, p 87). ” An alpine Learn how to tie all of the best climbing knots in simple step-by-step animated videos. Knots are the fundamental building blocks that connect climbers to their equipment, anchors, and partners, ensuring their safety and enabling them Feb 9, 2020 · There is little in climbing as important as rock climbing knots. From the world's #1 knot site - Animated Knots by Grog. Whether you’re embarking on a climbing expedition, preparing for a rescue mission, or simply setting up a hammock in your backyard, the alpine butterfly offers a strong, secure, and easy-to-tie knot for getting the job done. In other words, sometimes there are two pieces and you don't have a sling or a cord to equalize them, but you do have a rope. Load can be safely applied: from the loop to either end of the rope; between the two ends with the loop hanging free; or to the loop with the load spread between the two ends. This short video shows one how to tie the figure-eight follow-through. juus sabj acx lxjid ludnp pkfk zupp clar vrozv ctmo